Visit Mont Saint-Michel at Low Tide | 退潮时的圣米歇尔山美景

In my previous post, I mentioned the Abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore, which reminded me of another abbey: the Benedictine Abbey on the tidal island of Mont Saint-Michel. This well-known attraction is located off the coast of Normandy in northern France. It's not a long drive from home, but I was put off by the possibility of crowds due to its fame. This iconic site received over 3 million visitors per year, with summer being especially popular due to better weather conditions.

Also, when it comes to travel destinations, many tend to prefer exotic ones far away from their living place. So, despite being close to it a few times, I didn't put this famous island high on my list these years. However, the pandemic has altered many aspects of our lives. For example, I've begun to notice more of the nearby locations, and most attractions have seen fewer crowds.

On that summer day in 2020 when the pandemic started to spread across Europe, we were on the way to Brittany. The lovely weather and promising sunset convinced us to finally visit Mont Saint-Michel. It's proved that I had underestimated the beauty of this place. Like many other world wonders, the charm is found not only in the architecture itself but also in the surrounding nature.

Let's start with a little history of Mount Saint-Michel. In the eighth century, a local bishop began work on a modest chapel atop the island rock. The island is connected to the mainland by a causeway that is exposed at low tide and submerged at high tide. Ever since then, this mystical sacred site has drawn pilgrims across a perilous bay with swiftly rising tides. The first abbey was constructed before the end of the tenth century, and I was amazed by the miniature replica showcasing how it evolved into its current appearance, along with the surrounding village.

Aside from being a place of religious worship, this type of tidal island is also commonly used as a fortress because of its natural fortification. Here I have to skip millions of words about the long history of all the battles and fights around this island... It appeared on the famous Bayeux Tapestry which depicts the 1066 Norman conquest of England, and it remained unconquered during the Hundred Years' War despite the English's repeated sieges. It also served as a prison and was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979.

Unlike in the past, the abbey is now easily accessible from the mainland. We first stopped at the car park, which is 2.5 kilometers from Mont Saint-Michel, because tourists' cars are not permitted to drive directly up to the site. A nearby Alligator Bay is also popular with families with children. You can walk for about 40 minutes from the parking lot, cycle there, or take the free shuttle bus, which takes about 5 minutes. Another choice is to ride in a horse-drawn carriage.

From my photos here, you can see the long elegant bridge leading to the island. It was designed by architect Dietmar Feichtinger and was opened to the public in July 2014. This light structure enables the water around Mont Saint-Michel to flow freely, and it also improves the efficiency of the hydraulic dam, a project that removed the previous causeway and allowed the tides to wash the sand away.

At very high tides, a wall of water separates the picturesque landmark from the mainland. Together with its illuminated reflection, it makes an iconic image. We happened to be at Mont Saint-Michel at low tide, so it didn't look like the typical island portrayed in the media. Low tide, on the other hand, revealed some hidden beaches and enabled us to walk on the flat seabed and vast sandbanks.

The Mont is nearly 1 km in circumference, and you can see some historic structures along the way, such as Chapelle and Fontaine of Saint-Aubert. With the brilliant golden hour and sunset later, it was such a feast of unique vistas. Once again, I was struck by the stunning combination of human civilization and natural power.

The tides vary by about 14 meters between the lowest and highest water marks, and water can "come in faster than a running man," according to local officials. Reports had it that some tourists were drowned by the tide. Besides, the tidal mudflats surrounding the Mont contain deep mud and quicksand. As a result, visitors are advised not to go too far or cross the entire flats on foot. I noticed a few groups of visitors walking to further locations with qualified guides.

At first, I assumed that if we stayed there long enough that day, we would eventually see the legendary island surrounded by rising water. But no, that's not the case. It only got darker, colder and windier.XD To view this magical spectacle, you'll need to visit at very high tide, which only happens roughly 36 to 48 hours after a full moon.

There is also the "supertide," which occurs every 18 years when the sun, moon, and Earth line up. The most recent "supertide" occurred in March of 2015. According to experts, there will be an even higher "tide of the century" in March of 2033. That sounds exciting! If you're also interested, here are the tide schedules:
http://wisuki.com/tide/6154/mont-saint-michel


From May to August, the abbey is open daily from 9 am to 7 pm. The last admissions are an hour earlier, so plan ahead for your visit. You need to arrive early and pay the fixed daily charge of parking before 7 pm. Tickets can be reserved in advance and are good for the ensuing 365 days. The cost of parking is reduced if you come after 7 pm. The option to leave before 1 am makes it a perfect place to spend some quiet time. If you want to linger for even longer, you can stay overnight on the island in one of those expensive hotels, or there are also a couple of camping sites in the nearby towns.

Here you can find more practical information for accessing the site: http://www.bienvenueaumontsaintmichel.com/en

上篇的大橄榄山修道院让我想到一处更有名的圣米歇尔山修道院。圣米歇尔山是法国北部一个著名的海上浮岛。今天我就来分享退潮时在浮岛上看到的美景。

这是三年前疫情刚席卷欧洲时去的，所以不像平常一样人山人海。到达大陆的停车场后，可以搭乘穿梭巴士去到离圣米歇尔山不远处的栈桥上，也可以步行、骑车，或者坐马车到达山脚下。

周围的海水在一年中有二十次左右会涨到最高位，而让小山与大陆隔绝，看起来就像一座孤岛。那时候，山上的修道院和房屋等建筑倒映在海水中，一定很美，希望将来也有机会能看到那种特别的景象。

Here are some funny souvenirs I saw in the shop, about the location and weather of the place. :)

下面几张照片记录了在纪念品小店里看到的法式幽默。


Technically, Mont Saint-Michel is located in Lower Normandy, but it is only a short distance from Brittany. Driving time to the Mont from Rouen, the capital of Normandy, is approximately 3 hours, and driving time from Rennes, the capital of Brittany, is only about 1 hour.

圣米歇尔山地处布列塔尼和诺曼底边境，所以成了两边争抢的名胜:

Low tide and high tide. I also read that the salted meadow lamb is a local specialty here.

退潮和高潮的时候:

The notorious weather reminds me of the heartwarming comedy: Bienvenue chez les Ch'tis, highly recommended. :)

法国西北天气很糟糕，诺曼底就常常下雨: (顺便推荐一下那部有名的法国喜剧电影《欢迎来北方》，生动地讲述了北法阴冷多雨的天气和热情好客的民风，很暖心的片子。)

因此便有了下面这个梦想:

For the best experience view this post on Liketu