Sailing around Croatia's stunning Adriatic islands

“Sometimes a man’s gotta do what a man’s gotta do” I said to my wife (well, more or less) and I went sailing with my friends on the breathtaking Adriatic Sea. It happened a few years ago, when my friends and I agreed that we should test our mate's knowledge when he passed his boatmaster exam.

I love the sea. One of the best locations when you can enjoy the sea is Croatia. The Croatian coast and its islands are amazing. Croatia is one of the best destinations for sailing since with a sailboat you can visit the most hidden corners and discover the most beautiful and peaceful beaches. There are plenty of islands in the unspoiled nature and amazing, historic towns. You can pumper up your nautical holiday with gourmet cuisine, fresh seafood, and excellent local wines. The biggest and most difficult decision you have to make is which destination to choose.

With my friends we had previously agreed that our sailing would take place at the end of August. The weather is ideal for sailing, the sea is warm for swimming, and boat rental prices are lower compared to the high season. In addition, there are several sailing boats available, so you can choose the one that suits you.

We left home in the middle of the night …at 3 AM and arrived at the marina in the early morning. Our sailing started on the island of Murter, which is connected to the mainland by a bridge. Of course, we booked our boat in advance and upon arrival to the marina we just loaded our bags, food and drinks on the sailboat and immediately set sail for our unforgettable getaway week, full of sea, wind, having fun, and of course, good food and drinks.

Our skipper had, of course, made the itinerary, but he didn't share it with us. He just told us what our next destination would be. This made the whole adventure even more full of surprises and a bit mysterious, because we didn't know what was coming the next day.

The island of Dugi otok

With the wind in our sails, we set sail for Telascica National Park, located on Dugi otok. This was also the northernmost point of our sailing adventure. Here, we saw two of the most interesting things on the island. First, we had a close look at the cliffs called Stene (The Walls), which rise 161 metres above the sea. They were formed by the tectonic movement of the Adriatic microplate beneath the Eurasian Plate.

Then we headed to the salty Lake Mir, which is 900 metres long, 300 metres wide, and about 8 metres deep. The salinity of the water in this lake is generally much higher than that of the surrounding sea, due to the intensive evaporation of the water.

Our skipper got us safely to our destination on the first day of the journey, so our whole group gave him a vote of confidence. He was our best skipper, as there was no other skipper on our boat 😂

The Kornati National Park

The next morning, we turned our sailing boat southward and headed for the famous Kornati Islands. Have you heard of them? Thanks to their natural beauty, the Kornati Islands are today a magnet for many visitors, travellers and, of course, sailing enthusiasts.

The Kornati Islands are the largest archipelago in the Adriatic Sea and a paradise for every sea lover. The Kornati archipelago is made up of around 140 islands, islets and rocky reefs. They are located south of Zadar, in central Dalmatia, in an area of 320 square kilometres. Since 1980, the archipelago has been declared a national park, covering 89 islands. The Kornati Islands were formed 15 thousand years ago, when the sea level rose by hundreds of metres, making the Kornati Islands, geologically speaking, an integral part of the Dalmatian mainland. The archipelago is also the most concentrated group of islands in the entire Mediterranean.

There is no electricity in the unspoilt area of the national park and no water sources, apart from a few small wells on the island of Kornat. You won't find any permanent settlements here either, as the fishermen's cottages in the small hamlets are only inhabited in summer. The largest settlement by Kornati standards is Vrulje on the island of Kornat, which is also the largest of the islands after which the Kornati islands are named. Other larger islands include Zut, Levrnaka, Lavsa and a few others.

The name Kornati is probably derived from the Latin word corrimare - meaning "scattered, scattered islands". Another theory is that the Kornati Islands got their name because of the cliffs (vertical, steep, rocky shores) that "face" the open sea, called coronas (corona).

A feast for the eyes is the Tureta Fortress, which is perhaps the most remarkable building in the whole of the Kornati archipelago. It was built during the Byzantine period. This military structure was built in the 6th century AD.

At the foot of the hill where the Tureta Fortress stands, a church was built, affectionately called Gospa od Tarca (Our Lady of Tartus). Every year, the first Sunday in July, a mass is held in this church. Hundreds of sailboats and other ships attend this mass, which is one of the most interesting religious events in Croatia.

The vertical walls, also called crowns (krune), are certainly the most attractive natural phenomenon of the park. The crowns are picturesque cliffs on the outer sides of the islands, overlooking the open sea and extending well below sea level. The highest rises 82 meters above sea level on Klobucer Island, while the deepest reaches more than 90 meters underwater on Piskera Island.

Many visitors, when they first approach Mana Island, wonder what those ruins on the top of the island are, which, among other things, look really impressive, like on a movie screen. The ruins were indeed erected here in 1959, when the movie 'As the Sea Rages' was being shot.

Although the islands have a desert-like view, biologists have counted 364 plant and 295 animal species living here. Truly amazing!

The crystal-clear Adriatic Sea holds many beauties in its depths. Scientists have found 353 species of algae and around 850 species of animals (molluscs, corals, crustaceans, fish, etc.) living in the Kornati area. With such underwater riches, it would be a sin not to enjoy a delicious dinner in one of the tavernas in Kornati National Park.

The island of Lavrnaka

On the island of Lavrnaka, we made a quick stop on a beautiful beach surrounded by turquoise waters. The location is beautiful, but at the time of our visit, there were too many bathers, so we quickly headed further afield to a more peaceful spot.

We spent the night moored on the pier.

We filled our hungry stomachs at a local tavern with seafood specialties. With full stomachs, we fell asleep immediately, as we had had a very long day.

The island of Vis

We left Kornati early in the morning for the long drive to the island of Vis, where we moored at the pier in the village of Komiza. This was the longest distance we covered in one day. We were lucky that the wind was very favorable, and we saved on fuel.

The island of Scedro

Our next stop was the island of Scedro, located south of the island of Hvar, one of the pearls of Croatian tourism. Here we rested a bit, as we were still a little tired from the previous day, when we had spent the whole day at sea. The sailing was calm and short, so we had time to recharge our batteries.

The days were full of activities and passed very quickly. When it got hot, we immediately jumped into the sea and refreshed ourselves. It was really fun and refreshing😊

Breakfasts and lunches were prepared on the boat, as we had everything we needed for that: a small kitchen, food, and drinks. For dinner, we found authentic tavernas, only accessible from the sea, offering fresh and tasty seafood.

The island of Kaprije

We continued our sailing and headed north again, to the island of Kaprije, which lies in the center of the Sibenik archipelago. The island is named after the caper tree, although I must admit that I didn't see a single caper tree bush on the island.

We moored on the south side of the island, in a beautiful bay. We were lucky because we were all alone in the bay at that time, and we were able to enjoy it.

There is a very special tavern here that serves excellent seafood 😊 The food was excellent and the tavern was really a bit special, one of a kind. We were already smiling when we saw the reception desk 😊.

The island of Capri was our last destination. From here, we set off again the next morning to Murter, where we returned our sailboat. As we stepped onto the ground, we realized that our adventure was coming to an end. Before departing for home, we had a quick bite at one of the local restaurants. After a whole week of seafood, a piece of grilled piglet was just the thing 😊

To sum up our sailing, it was unforgettable, and my memories of it are still very vivid. If you have the opportunity, I highly recommend such an experience. Just a small advice: If you are in doubt if this kind of adventure is suitable for you or not… It is certainly a wonderful experience, but it is also true that is not for everyone. If you can't swim or you are afraid of the water, or you are seasick then I’m afraid you will not enjoy it and is better that you decide for a different type of vacation.

Thanks for reading,
feel free to leave a comment, I will be glad to reply to.
Best regards, @miljo76