A Day in the Heart of Madeira – Funchal

Hello friends, I’d like to share my experience of walking around Funchal the capital of Madeira, during my trip to this beautiful island. Madeira is a Portuguese island and our adventure started right at the airport. The landing strip here is known as one of the most dangerous in the world due to strong winds, making it an exciting and somewhat adrenaline-inducing experience. You can also do some fantastic plane spotting here, as the airport’s roof is open allowing you to watch planes landing and taking off. In fact part of the runway is constructed on special pillars over the ocean.

Funchal isn’t a very big city. But its historic center is quite intriguing. The market in particular, catches the eye with its Portuguese Art Deco architecture. The old streets are even more impressive, with beautifully painted doors everywhere. It feels like an open-air gallery under the sunny, blue sky.

Madeira is an autonomous region of Portugal, with so much autonomy that it has its own wine, rally and even a rally specifically celebrating its wine. Known as "Madeira wine" this wine is a point of pride for the locals and they’ve even erected a monument to honor a Madeira entrepreneur.

Madeira's most famous wine is the sweet, fortified Madeira wine. Many compare it to Portugal’s renowned Port wine, though the production methods differ. Madeira wine is aged at high temperatures, which gives it its golden color. It’s made from various grape varieties, including Sercial, Verdelho, Arante and Tinta Negra Mole.

The British have also had a significant influence on Madeira's wine industry, with many British wine merchants here, much like the Port producers in Portugal’s Douro Valley. We visited the famous Blandy's winery, established in the 19th century by British entrepreneur Blandy and now managed by the sixth and seventh generations of the family. Blandy's family is among the founders of the Madeira Wine Association. So visiting a tasting room here to sample Madeira wine is highly recommended. These rooms are furnished in various authentic styles and are quite interesting. There are also tours where you can see old winemaking equipment, like impressive old wine presses that resemble olive presses.

In Funchal we saw many historical landmarks, particularly the city’s cathedral a beautiful building. Built in the 10th century in Gothic style, the cathedral’s exterior is fascinating. It’s clad in local volcanic stone and decorated with typical Portuguese plasterwork. Inside it’s richly adorned with gilded altars and a fully carved ceiling, a style I hadn’t seen before.

If you’re puzzled about Cristiano Ronaldo, yes, it’s really him. Unfortunately, the statue at the airport and the one at his museum’s entrance don’t quite resemble him. These statues are made in a rather peculiar way. The CR7 hotel in Funchal is also named after him and there are certain spots you’re supposed to touch for good luck.

Another interesting detail is that Cristiano Ronaldo isn’t just a football player but also a designer. He designed a chair called CR7 with the famous designer Nini Andrade Silva. You can see this chair in many places, but it’s best to view it at Nini Andrade Silva’s design center. Located in an old fort with a modern upper addition, the center showcases Silva's various designs, especially stones and other furniture. There are also remarkable designs by different manufacturers, including unique pieces like the Duna armchair and Lapua lounge chair.

However, my experience with the restaurant was quite negative. it was the worst meal I’ve had in months. Still I highly recommend stopping by the design center to explore Portuguese design and see Cristiano Ronaldo’s work as a designer. But I wouldn't suggest having lunch there.

The design center and this rest stop offer a spectacular view, showcasing a magnificent view of Funchal. From here you can also see another very interesting architectural structure: the Pestana Casino Park Hotel. This hotel was designed by the renowned Oscar Niemeyer who began the project in 1966, though it wasn’t completed until 1976. These dates coincide with Portugal’s transition to democracy after the dictatorship period.

The complex consists of three main buildings: the hotel, the casino and a small convention center. The design is quite modernist and appears almost suspended on pillars. The public spaces are stylish and give the impression that their original design has been preserved as much as possible. There’s also an incredible view of Funchal Bay and the city. This is Oscar Niemeyer’s only completed project in Portugal. Other projects, like the modern art museum in Ponta Delgada on the Azores and the Luza Foundation headquarters, were never realized. Staying at the hotel or spending time here would be a pleasure and you might even try your luck at the casino.

Another interesting site is São José Fortress, which has a peculiar story. This fortress was privately owned by a family and later acquired by a school teacher who went on to declare it an independent state. However, this independent state is not recognized by the Portuguese government or other nations. Currently, it has only four citizens: the teacher and his family members. Although this “state” is closed now, its history is quite fascinating.

Thanks to Madeira’s tropical and subtropical climate, the island is home to rich plant life. Every park feels like a botanical garden and the natural beauty is impressive. If you visit during the warmer months, you’ll see streets lined with Jacaranda trees blooming with purple flowers. A really impressive sight. Along this boulevard, you’ll also find a statue of João Gonçalves Zarco, one of Funchal’s founders and early settlers.

After delving into Funchal’s historical and cultural fabric, I’d like to touch on Portugal’s maritime history. Funchal developed significantly under the influence of Prince Henry the Navigator, a pioneering figure in exploration. Although he didn’t sail himself, his sponsorship opened the way for many expeditions, establishing Portugal as a leading country in exploration and maritime achievements. For this reason, Portugal is truly regarded as the nation of first explorers.

As for our culinary experience, we decided to give Madeira’s cuisine a second chance. On the guide’s recommendation, we visited a delightful restaurant called "Armazem do Sal" which translates to "salt warehouse" suggesting its history as a salt storage site. The cuisine was traditional yet creative. For starters, the salmon ceviche with aioli and calamari was quite original. We also enjoyed the mackerel with pomegranate seeds and different textures. Another dish, red snapper with fresh herbs and vegetables, was subtle but pleasant. Although some items, like the Pavlova dessert, weren’t as impressive, I’d still recommend the restaurant. The bill for two was 120 euros.

Although I’d visited Funchal before, I initially struggled to connect with the city. However, the next day I was sure we’d be amazed by the island’s nature. Madeira is renowned for its natural beauty and I was eager to explore the island’s natural wonders.