淺談台中印象 / A Brief Take on My Impressions of Taichung

交通不方便的年代，南來北往是很花時間的事情，不過，讀書時有位同學住在中部，所以趁暑假時，一夥好友用很克難的方式，透過大眾運輸系統，到達台中，我們在台中的第一站，就是台中火車站旁的小吃店，在台中的第一餐就是爌肉飯，其實我點的是滷肉飯，菜單上也是寫著滷肉飯，但是給我上的是爌肉飯，但是，已經餓翻的我，毫不猶豫吃完它，多年之後，我才知道，我其實心裡想點的是肉燥飯，但是中部的滷肉飯就是爌肉飯，我之前文章提到很多次的，一道料理，可能會有多種名稱，連在一座小小的島國，都會有這樣的現象。

後來，出社會之後，高速鐵路完成了，對於旅遊或出差，節省了不少交通時間，但是，我到台中都是匆匆來去，或短暫停留幾天，並無法深入當地人的生活，比較熟悉的地方就是各大夜市，雖然我不算是吃貨，但是夜市新奇的地方多，而對於外地人而言，交通還是不太方便，所以來來去去都是逢甲夜市，住的地方也靠近它，因為夜市就在大學旁邊，生活機能方便，東西便宜，是個好地方

這次來台中，我特別想住在原本不熟悉的地方，台中火車站就是我的首選，多年前是台中最繁華的地點，但是，多年過後，這一帶相對沒落，不過，有多處具歷史意義的建築物，台中火車站本身就是古蹟，舊站的巴洛克風格建築保存完好，人們可以感受到台灣早期的日治時期風貌，而且舊城區處有很多巷弄小店、文創空間和傳統小吃，很多知名小吃都是從中部發源出來的，我印象最深刻的就是太陽餅，不過，拜便利的交通運輸所賜，現在各地都可以買的到。

台中火車站附近的某商場曾發生一起重大事故，是當地人不想提的禁忌，也是一起都市傳說，算是一段黑歷史，也導致這一帶沉寂了好一段時間，但是，畢竟這區是有歷史底蘊的地方，值得品味的事物太多了，此外，因為人力短缺，大量引入移工，慢慢地，這裡也變成東南亞移工聚集區，也有小東南亞的別稱，多種文化的碰撞，也讓這裡充滿著各式新奇事物。

Back in the days when transportation was inconvenient, traveling from the north to the south took a lot of time. But when I was a student, I had a friend who lived in central Taiwan, so during summer break, a group of us made our way to Taichung using public transportation in the most budget-friendly way we could manage. Our first stop in Taichung was a little eatery next to the train station, where we had our first meal—kuang rou fan (braised pork belly rice). I’d actually ordered lu rou fan (braised pork rice), and that’s what the menu said, but they served me kuang rou fan instead. I was starving by then, so I ate it without hesitation! It wasn’t until years later that I realized what I really wanted was rou zao fan (minced pork rice), but in central Taiwan, lu rou fan often means kuang rou fan. Like I’ve mentioned many times before, a dish can have different names—even on a small island like Taiwan, this can happen.

After starting work, the high-speed rail was completed, saving a lot of travel time for work or short trips. However, whenever I went to Taichung, it was usually just a quick trip or a short stay, so I didn’t get a chance to really experience local life. I’m most familiar with the night markets; I wouldn’t call myself a foodie, but night markets have so many interesting things. For outsiders, transportation is still a bit inconvenient, so we often end up at Fengjia Night Market and usually stay nearby. Since it’s right by a university, it’s convenient, affordable, and has everything you need—a really good spot.

This time, I wanted to stay somewhere I wasn’t as familiar with, so I chose the area near Taichung Station. Many years ago, this was the most bustling part of Taichung, but over time it’s quieted down. Still, there are many historically significant buildings. The old Taichung Station itself is a heritage site, with well-preserved Baroque-style architecture from Taiwan’s Japanese colonial era, allowing people to feel the vibe of early Taiwan. The old city area also has lots of alleyway shops, creative spaces, and traditional snacks. Many of Taiwan’s famous snacks originated from central Taiwan—I have the fondest memories of sun cake. Thanks to convenient transportation, you can now buy it almost anywhere.

One of the malls near Taichung Station had a major incident once, a tragic event that’s become a kind of urban legend—a piece of dark history that locals don’t like to talk about. It caused this area to fall silent for quite a while. But this district has so much history and culture, and so many worthwhile things to explore. Recently, with a labor shortage, many migrant workers have come in, transforming this area into a gathering spot for Southeast Asian workers. It’s even nicknamed “Little Southeast Asia”, and the mix of cultures brings a lot of unique and interesting things to the area.

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