Eating Lab-Grown Eel Meat (Japanese Unagi)

So, I have a question for all of you. Would you eat fake meat?

I read a story the other day, and I linked to this on my website, so if you follow me there you may have seen it. (Here is the link on my website, and here if the original story)

A few days ago there was a story that said this company has started producing fake eel meat. If you're not familiar with eel in Japan, or unagi, let me tell you, unagi is considered kind of a delicacy in Japan. Everyone loves it. There's a long tradition of eating unagi and it's really, really, really good. If you've never tried it, I can't recommend it enough.

But it has been overfished, and so it has started to disappear. In fact, eels are now considered to be endangered. The Japanese habit of eating them is only one factor in many that is driving them to decline. Because of that endangered status, there are a lot of restrictions on the fishing of eels. As a result, the price of unagi has skyrocketed.

In an effort to combat this, many eel farms have arisen, primarily in China. As a result, most of the unagi you buy at the supermarket in Japan is from a farm in China. Now I'm sure you all know about fish farms and have a bad image of them. They don't exactly result in the most healthy fish in the world. Those fish are usually given a lot of hormones to help them grow. They're also given a lot of antibiotics because there's a lot of disease that spreads through these farms. So this isn't really stuff that you want to be eating.

(It does bear mentioning that not all fish farms are like this. Some do try to raise the fish as naturally as possible. But in any farm, disease is a big problem, so antibiotics will almost inevitably be involved. And remember, antibiotics that fish consume end up in us when we consume the fish.)

Anyway, with all that out of the way, you can see that lab-grown unagi might actually be a boon to Japan. And lo and behold, we have this company now producing unagi in the laboratory. Unagi that they say is pretty good and tastes just as good as the real thing.

They've taken their lab-grown unagi to a vegan restaurant in Tokyo and had them make a number of dishes using it. Like this one.

Anyway, with all that context, I ask you again, would you eat lab-grown meat?

There is also of course the argument that this isn't entirely vegan since lab-grown meat uses animal cells, even if it doesn't harm the animal. As I understand it, this is a hotly debated topic in the vegan community, if it would be acceptable to eat for a vegan or not.

The deeper argument of course is that something has to be done about the global meat industry. There's many studies about how our current, the way we produce meat in the modern world is not sufficient to supply every country. If all of the developing countries start to demand meat at the same level as developed countries do, well, there's just simply no way to deal with this. Our system already has some cracks around the edges. All of these factory farms that we read about and we get disgusted with, like for example, chickens are caged their entire life, in dark rooms, barely able to move. Most of them go crazy and try to peck each other to death so they have to be restrained even more. Disease is rampant, so they're feed a constant supply of tons of antibiotics. We just kept alive long enough to get nice and plump for them to slaughter so we can eat them. Yeah... factory farming is not exactly an ethical business.

And there's other problems as well, but I'm sure you all know of them so let's move on.

There are a few proposed solutions for dealing with these problems. One is that we eat more insects. Supposedly insect protein is actually quite healthy and it's definitely more abundant. Of course there's the ethical issue on eating insects as well, so the vegans would still be angry about that.

Another proposed solution is laboratory grown meat. And that brings us back to the article.

It seems like this meat is ready and it is set to start to appear in Japanese restaurants next year in 2025.

So back to my question, would you try lab-grown meat?

Would I? Yeah, I guess I would. I usually eat vegetarian most of the time. My wife is vegan, so automatically I eat that way most of the time. But even when I go out alone, I usually stay away from meat; I generally follow the Buddhist idea not to bring harm, so I do try to limit my damage when I can. But I also won't refuse meat and I so will eat meat sometimes when it's already being served by others (not when it's specifically ordered for me, which I will refuse when it's not impolite to do so). So this is all to say that debate in vegan circles I mentioned above on if lab-grown meat is acceptable or not wouldn't really influence me here. Suffering is removed (depending on how these cells at the beginning of the process are obtained, I suppose) so I'm ethically ok with it. There is just the idea of eating a lab-grown thing to get over.

But yeah, I guess I would try it. I'm not saying I'd add it to my permanent diet, but it might be interesting to try.

Would you?

Let me know in the comments.

Hi there! David LaSpina is an American photographer and translator lost in Japan, trying to capture the beauty of this country one photo at a time and searching for the perfect haiku. He blogs here and at laspina.org. Write him on Twitter or Mastodon.


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Nope, unlikely I would. We already eat enough crap, and the quality has only been worsening. I do agree that we need a lot more balanced diet, but lab meat raises soooo many questions, and not even talking about the ethics part. What processes/chemicals are used? What effect in our bodies? Long term studies? I am very mindful of everything that enters my body, orally or injected, and unless I have VERY convincing answers... it's a no for me.

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That's a very good point. If it's grown chemical free then it could possibly be healthier than the real thing, free from parasites and other nasty things that animals get from the environment (like microplastics and mercury—thanks, humans). But if it is grown with chemicals what chemicals? How safe are these for us? Yes, good question!

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And given how studies about everything that gives a ton of profit tend to be "blurry" when made by the same company providing the product... I will wait. All the changes in the food that we normally eat are probably the cause of a ton of auto-immune disorders; I'll try and eat as natural as I can, minimum of processed food and if possible coming from biological sources. After all... we are what we eat! ;)

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Studies about everything tend to be "blurry" unfortunately. Few scientists are removed from bias. Like all these coffee studies that show how good coffee is for us, for example. But the results are only interpreted that way because the people doing the study love coffee and they want it to do well. I'd like it to do well too, but at the same time I want a real non-bias result that shows the good and the bad. It's not their fault—human bias is almost impossible to remove. This is one area that AI may really help us, by removing even the unconscious bias.

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I guess we'll see a ton of AI improvement in a (very) near future... so we'll find out for sure! :)

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Here I thought unagi was that term from Friends that mean you are super aware of your surroundings! I don't think I could do this. I had a big fat juicy porterhouse steak tonight and it was delicious!

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I rarely watched friends, so I don't understand the reference... I should mention, that the Japanese u is pronounced more like "ou" as in uber, so unagi is ou-nah-gee. Hmm.... is "ou" the best way to represent that sound in English? oo? uu?

Anyway, hope you enjoyed your steak 😃

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I try not to eat much meat at all but damn I love smoked eel. My german uncle used to catch it in the river across from our house and smoke them - I developed a taste then.

BUT saying that, there's very few meats I can bring myself to eat these days - it's a moral quagmire for me. Take octopus for example. I LOVE pickled octopus - I used to get a small tub when I went to the melbourne markets. It made me think of Greece (where I have yet to to go) and the Greeks who make up a huge population of Melbourne. I grew up in quite the cosmopolitian climate, as they'd call it here - so many migrants from all over the world bring amazing food. Yet once I learnt how bloody intelligent octopus are I haven't been able to eat it since. I never will. And then I think, well, every creature has it's own intelligence, so why I am putting my taste buds over - well, yes, ahimsa. Do no harm.

So more and more I'm moving away from the idea of meat, even 'fake' meat with it's high salt content and production costs. It's the texture really - mushrooms, eggplant, tofu, tempeh - they'll give me that bite and umami taste with the typical seasonings I'd use with it. So I dont' feel I miss meat at all, and feel like I have this big obligation to the world to be one of the few that doesn't eat meat.

Lab grown, well, I don't really have an issue with it - though I'd like to know more about it first! I would certainly like to try it - I just went and read an article about it! I guess many ethicists might also question where life actually begins and if using embyronic stem cells is problematic? However it seems the far, far lesser evil than mass extinction, damage of the planet, cruelty to animals and so on...

Dairy, however - now I don't eat a lot of it, but still - ! I think I've been vegetarian my whole life, so I don't feel the need to be vegan, even though I'm probably eating vegan 80 percent of the time.

Gah! I'm so hungry. Tempeh noodles it is.

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Yeah, I hear you. Oo and I love octopus too, but yeah I don't eat it anymore either. I also don't miss meat to any great degree. The older I get, the more enjoyment I get from vegetables and mushrooms alone, so I have more than enough food that I can get pleasure from on this side of the meat divide.

It's interesting, though. If this lab-grown meat is safe (that is, no bad chemicals are used in the growing of it) and if it really is harmless (these cells are harvested in a painless way that doesn't harm the animal) then this could be a tremendous technology to give all meat-lovers their fix while saving the lives of many animals.

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I agree .. perhaps that insatiable hunger of youth that consumes without thought or consequence has shifted to something more moderate.

If people who relish a 'juicy steak' could feel less squeamish about lab meat and more squeamish about mass extinction and animal agriculture then half the planets problems could be solved ..

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I think it's a great idea. Eel is really good but like you said, overfishing is an issue. Lab grown meats are actually pretty good and getting better every year. It's really the best way to enjoy meat if you don't want to slaughter the animal, however the texture is different!

Great post!
!DHEDGE

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I would give it a try. Have been following the development loosely over time. It always used to be a tiny piece of meat that was very expensive to produce. Most recently, I saw a piece with Liv Boeree:

It looks promising, but the product is still too expensive to make.

p.s. She mentions that she is an investor in the company.

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